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This page: on board SS
Tweedsmuir Park. |
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On
board SS Noranda Park. |
Hamor Gardner's Suez shore leave pass
The
war could not have been fought without the steady flow of supplies
transported to every theatre of war on merchant ships. Ask yourself: how
did all the military personnel get to those war zones? How did they get
their food, smokes, boots and clothing? How did all the military equipment
get there? Everything from a carton of cigarettes to one thousand pound
bombs was carried on merchant ships.
From the Foreword to 'East of Suez'.
Hamor was born in 1924 in Toronto, Ontario, after his father joined
the Ontario Provincial Police Force. As the baby of the family,
Hamor attended six elementary schools and two different high schools
and he and his sisters coined a phrase for each first day at a new
school; it became known as 'Stare Day'. He then worked for nine
months at the Toronto shipyard prior to enrolling in a full time
radio operators' course at the Radio College of Canada. Hamor graduated
in December 1942 and joined the Montreal Merchant Navy Manning Pool.
He then sailed as a radio operator for the Park Steamship Company
Ltd, on board the Tweedsmuir Park, Kelowna Park, Noranda
Park and Willowdale Park. A copy of his memoir 'East
of Suez' is on loan to the Centre and covers the period November
1943 to May 1945. Here we are pleased to feature extracts from the
memoir, which is an interesting and often entertaining look at life
in the Canadian merchant navy:
It was mid November 1943, when Buck Lassaline arrived
back on board the S/S Tweedsmuir Park at Saint John, New
Brunswick. I had returned the day before. We had been on leave for
a couple of weeks after a rather rough trip to Hull, on the east
coast of England. Jack Waines, our Chief Radio Operator had told
me earlier that the word Karachi, had been seen on a large crate
being lowered into number four hold. It had to be better than heading
over to Blighty again, especially that time of year. We reflected
on the horrendous Arctic storm that had decimated our convoy south
of Iceland, on top of the U-boat alerts during a spell of good weather.
We had thought we were old salts before experiencing that blow.
We were sea sick for several days.
We were going to miss this North Atlantic winter.
Those of us who had been home on leave were happy to be clear of
land again. Except for Peter, the Lancashire lad; Captain Robinson,
the mates and engineers were Yorkshiremen. All had been at sea since
the beginning of the war and had their fill of dodging U-boat attacks.
A trip to their home port in Britain was a rarity. Escorted by a
couple of old, four stack destroyers from the moth-balled U.S. fleet,
our convoy was soon across the Gulf of Maine and around Cape Cod.
We ended up anchored at Hampstead Roads, off Norfolk, Virginia,
awaiting the arrival of dozens of other ships to form up a convoy
destined for Gibraltar.
The Tweedsmuir Park swung at her anchor
for ten long days. There was no shore leave. Poker games went on
almost continuously, many took to shooting craps, books were read
avidly, and letters written to the folks and sweethearts back home.
The waiting game finally ended. We were on our way. Crossing the
Atlantic at that latitude is usually an enjoyable experience from
a weather aspect. Our ship was just another one in a large convoy
spread out from horizon to horizon. It is much like being in a huge
crowd where you don't know anyone. You have the feeling of being
alone, yet being in a throng.
We seldom knew what might be going on miles away
on either side of the convoy where the escort vessels prowled. When
the "karrump" of depth charges could be seen, heard and
felt shaking the ship we didn't know if they were onto a submarine
or a whale. Eighteen days after departing Hampstead Roads we were
again at anchor, only this time in the lee of Gibraltar. In less
than a day we were part of another convoy beginning a tricky run
through the Mediterranean. Many of the ships in this convoy were
destined for Italian or North African ports. Although the Italian
campaign was well underway, the Mediterranean was still a bit dicey.
A west bound convoy we passed lost two ships to aircraft in one
attack. We had smoke screens laid down a couple of times. A few
U-boats were still prowling around the Med, but what stirred up
the gastric juices more than anything else was the threat of mines.
That is what we were doing on Christmas Day, 1943. Playing follow
the leader through a large mine field off the island of Malta. The
known mine fields were bad enough, the unknown mine fields and drifting
mines were a constant worry as we headed east for Port Said and
the Suez Canal.
At Port Said - L to R Jack Waines Sr R/O, Hamor Gardner Jr R/O, Armand (Buck) Lassaline Jr R/O
The Tweedsmuir Park needed bunkering at Port
Said. Large coal barges were tied up three abreast on either side of
our ship. Four extremely long squared timbers were hoisted into place,
running from the central barges on either side up onto our port and
starboard bulwarks where the bunker hatches were located. It was late
in the afternoon when the bunkering began. Canvas and woven baskets
were filled with coal, then hoisted onto the shoulders of men, women
and a few children. They had dumped six hundred tons of coal into our
bunkers by the time dawn broke through.
That prodigious output of work by the descendants of
Egypt's pyramid builders may have been commonplace to them, but not
to young, wide-eyed Canadians. Observing those workers made a lasting
impression on me.
All the time bunkering was going on, a lot of business
was going on over the side of the ship. Dozens of bumboats were continuously
jostling for good positions, especially around the stern. With New
Years Eve looming large next day, and with no booze available on board,
negotiations for Egyptian Rhum quickly took precedent over souvenirs.
I wangled two bottles for a pair of torn pants I was going to toss
overboard.
Next day we steamed through the northern section of
the canal and anchored overnight in the Great Bitter Lakes. Out of
Suez and south through the Red Sea, a rivalry developed in the stoke
hole between the three watches. As a result of some loud mouthed bragging,
bets were wagered about which watch could log the most knots. The betting
was simple. The losing black gang had to buy a round of drinks next
time ashore. Each time I had to go into the boiler room to get distilled
water for our wet batteries, I marvelled at the stamina of those men.
Standing well out of their way, I would watch as they stoked those
giant boilers with unending amounts of coal. An even worse job in my
mind was that of the coal passer. Those poor devils knew no peace,
there was no real respite for them except when they fell into their
bunks, exhausted beyond belief. There was one passer to each watch,
and his job was to keep the stokers well supplied with coal.
We proceeded south through the Red Sea, anchoring at
the port of Aden for a few hours. It was primarily for the captain
and Jack Waines to go ashore to be briefed by the Royal Navy about
submarine activity in the Arabian Sea. Jack received instructions about
keeping watch on certain frequencies to receive updated information.
Off we sailed alone through the placid waters of the
Gulf of Aden, skirting the desolate appearing shores of southern Arabia.
Further eastward we sailed past the foreboding cliffs of Muscat and
Oman. Our relatively routine life on board ship ended when we arrived
at Karachi, our first port of call where we were to discharge cargo.
We were outward bound for Bombay two days later. On
our third day in port we were lined up to be vaccinated against smallpox.
An epidemic was raging in central India. The only time Canadian merchant
seamen were given "shots" against specific diseases was when
their ship happened to in some foreign port where a preventable disease
was on the rampage. These vaccinations did some good, but in many cases
they were too late. After about a week's hunting, an oasis was found
in the heart of an exclusive residential district of Bombay. It was
an impressive looking establishment surrounded by a high brick wall.
We were to learn this establishment was, under normal circumstances,
the private domain of British army officers. With so many of those
privileged few being engaged in more serious pursuits fighting a war
in Burma, the rule was bent for us.
The truth of the matter likely lay in the fact that
business was slow. Hidden speakers carried modern, western dance music
continuously. If no guests were present upon our arrival, we never
had long to wait for the young hostesses to appear togged out in a
variety of appealing evening dresses. Dancing was free, almost. You
were expected to treat your dancing partner to a drink or two. Whatever
was in their drinks they were expensive. They may have been drinking
coloured water.
It was correspondingly expensive to do more than dance
or drink. A short time upstairs cost thirty rupees. If an all night
stay was desired, it cost one hundred rupees. On a radio operator's
pay of $109.00 per month, I doubt if many Sparks made it up those wood
panelled stairs to sample the mysteries above. We made three visits
to Madam Susan's during our two-week stay in Bombay. She got to know
us, and welcomed us like we were her own sons back home for a visit.
There must have been something about Buck and I that brought out the
motherly instinct in such women. Many fascinating hours were spent
out on the verandah with Madam Susan. We discussed the world at large,
but our own personal lives in particular. We enjoyed those quiet, interesting
evenings with her, and also with her entourage.
During our stay at Bombay, the port sports director
talked us into playing soccer against a team from a British merchant
ship. Few of us had played soccer except for half-hearted attempts
at high school. It sounded like fun, let's do it. We had no proper
gear for playing any sport. We were a ragtag gang of odd balls when
we tumbled off a bus at the designated playing field. The Brits were
togged out in flashy uniforms, and obviously had been doing this sort
of thing for some time. They had known ahead of time what to expect
from a bunch of colonials. They accepted us as we were in our mix of
work boots, running shoes, work a day shorts or long pants, and shirts
of many styles and colours.
Introductions over, the local officials got the game
underway. And what a game it was! We weren't used to racing all over
the place after an illusive ball. We soon had an argument over the
use of substitutes which is a no-no in soccer. We played on using subs,
ignoring the referee's whistle. The Brits finally okayed the idea after
seeing how out of shape we Canucks were when it came to playing their
game. What a relief it was when the game came to an end. The score
was somewhat lopsided in the Brits' favour.
That game was played on a Sunday. We managed to struggle
through two more games, one on Wednesday evening and the third on Saturday.
We lost again on Wednesday but we were getting better. By Saturday
we were in various stages of pain with blistered feet and cramped muscles.
My legs were so badly knotted with charley horses I couldn't run. Having
tried different guys in goal, it was decided to give me a shot at that
position hoping my legs would loosen up.
How we won that last game goodness only knows. Maybe
the Brits felt sorry for us. I did make some good saves, but most of
the credit belonged to a gang of young kids who crowded around the
back of the goal net. They knew their soccer, and heeding their advice,
I was stopping shots from all angles. They cheered the crazy Canucks
when the final whistle blew. We treated them to sweets from one of
the many vendors spotted around the park. The Brits were good sports,
although they may have looked upon the three games as practice rather
than competition. The week had turned out to be a lot of fun, once
our aches and pains subsided.
With ship's business done in Bombay, the Tweedsmuir
Park set sail for Calcutta. The leg to Colombo was one of the
rare times we steamed in convoy while out east. Our naval escort
consisted of two seagoing, Indian Navy tugs. We hoped they had a
few depth bombs on board if push came to shove.
Canadian merchant ships did not sail unarmed. In fact,
ships like the Tweedsmuir were very well armed. Each ship
carried ten, Royal Canadian Navy gunners. We had large guns mounted
fore and aft. Browning machine guns were located on the second deck
on either side of the bridge. We had a vicious weapon on the afterdeck.
It was a rocket launcher. It was designed to fire five rockets at a
time. When these small rockets were fired, they trailed fine steel
wire for hundreds of yards in the hope of snaring a dive bomber or
perhaps an aircraft wanting to launch a torpedo.
Nothing untoward happened as we steamed south in so
far as subs were concerned. The convoy dispersed as it neared Ceylon
(Sri Lanka), when most of the ships headed for Colombo. We kept on
toward the south of the island.
Almost every night, when radio signals carried tremendous
distances, we would pick up war time distress signals . . . SSSS SSSS
SSSS. The transmitting operators sometimes had time to give the ship's
position, some were thousands of miles away in the Indian Ocean. It
was something else altogether when such signals originated from ships
in the Bay of Bengal or Arabian Sea. There were few, if any, naval
patrols, and no air patrols except near Ceylon. If a ship had been
hit somewhere ahead, we could only cross our fingers, lower the cumbersome
torpedo nets, and sail on pretty lady, sail on.
Dragging those steel nets through the water suspended
from booms stretching out on either side, did provide a measure of
safety from torpedoes. They also cut a ship's speed down at least two
knots. Park ships were rated as ten knot vessels, in reality it was
more like nine. A decision to lower the torpedo nets was never taken
lightly. It was a slow and difficult job for the deck crew.
While sailing on our own in those waters, we often
sighted a drifting lifeboat or life raft. It never was taken for granted
they were empty, even when no sign of life could be seen through binoculars.
Depending on reported sub activity, we would steer out of our way to
bring the boat or raft alongside to see if it was empty. Each time
this occurred it left us wondering what had happened to the men who
had been in them, and to their ships.
Eleven days after leaving Bombay we sighted the approaches
to the mouth of the Hooghly River, one of the main tributaries of the
mighty Ganges River. After a wait of more than one hour, a pilot boat
came alongside and a Hooghly River pilot climbed aboard to con our
ship up the ninety-mile run to Calcutta. Ocean vessels usually tied
up at the Kiddepore Docks. After considerable pushing, shoving and
other manoeuvres by harbour tugs, our starboard side was warped up
to the crumbling concrete dock. The mates made sure all rat guards
were securely in place on each of our hawsers, not wanting any of those
super Calcutta beasts on board.
The ruckus of docking was hardly completed when the
port doctor made his way to the skipper's office. He and his assistants
wanted to conduct a "short arm" inspection of the crew before
any of them were permitted ashore. The crew was lined up and duly examined,
no venereal disease was found.
Dysentery paid us a visit. For the best part of a week
I did not stray far from my bunk. I would no sooner lie down in a state
of utter exhaustion when I would have to struggle to my feet, and stagger
to the head located on the far side of the ship from our cabin. The
port doctor tried talking me into going to the hospital. I managed
to dodge that suggestion. I had visions of being left at Calcutta.
We had discharged our cargo of war materials, and taken on more crates
of tea and bales of jute. We took our leave of the Kiddepore Docks,
and soon were downbound in the grip of the Hooghly River's current.
We were outward bound for Canada.
It took the best part of six days for the Tweedsmuir to
reach Colombo. Once again we were dock side, only in a much better
looking harbour than Calcutta. Colombo has one of the prettiest harbours
to be found anywhere. It looks like it is more or less man made, being
completely enclosed on the west side by an impressive concrete breakwater.
Once clear of the harbour security gate the heart of
the city was only a few hundred yards away. A walk up the main street
led past many interesting stores including several dispensing jewelry.
Although I did not know beans about gems, I did end up purchasing a
few from Dean Ismail Sons. I managed to keep the receipt for my one
and only dive into the gem market. It reads: 1 Garnet - 12 rupees;
1 Tourmaline - 8 rupees; 1 Topaz - 6 rupees and 1 Ruby -16 rupees.
A total of 42 rupees, $14.00 Canadian at the time. It turned out to
be a good investment.
A favourite spot to visit was the Crossroads Club.
This service-oriented club was run by the American Red Cross. You could
enjoy a pleasant evening dancing and taking part in other fun activities.
I was there one evening when they had a pie eating contest. I always
thought that I was a fairly good pie eater, but I was no match for
the other contestants. I started laughing so much at all the antics
going on that I couldn't eat worth a darn.
We enjoyed our brief stay at Colombo. In fact, many
of us were a tad sorry to see the last of our cargo being loaded. Those
thoughts soon dissipated when we were under way.
Our run to Aden went off smoothly despite the warnings
given by the powers that be about submarine activity in the Arabian
Sea. There still were a few distress signals coming through the ether
during night watches, but thankfully, none in our neck of the woods.
We made a brief stop at Aden when the old man and Jack
went ashore to check in with the Royal Navy blokes. Captain Robinson
received orders to call at Port Sudan to pick up a small amount of
cargo. On the return voyages from India, the managing companies of
Canadian Park ships could arrange their own cargoes and therefore visits
were made to a few odd ports. Outbound voyages from Canada were another
matter. Those cargoes were exclusively war related.
A few days later we were berthed at Port Sudan on the
west coast of the Red Sea. Our ship was a bit of a novelty. We were
told that the Tweedsmuir Park was the first Canadian flag
ship to call there.
The next port of call was Jidda, Saudi Arabia, then the Suez Canal,
before docking at Port Said.
Within a few hours of our arrival a convoy of British
army trucks appeared. They were lined up in neat rows on the dock waiting
to be hoisted aboard one by one. We were going to have the company
of a bunch of British army "Desert Rats." There were army
vehicles of every description, from jeeps to five ton jobs.
Hoisting them aboard one at a time using our jumbo
booms, and accommodating them on our limited deck space turned into
an interesting operation. Each vehicle had to be securely fastened
to deck lugs using steel cables and turnbuckles. There was little or
no room left on deck by the time they squeezed the last of the lorries
on board. Along with every truck came their crews; at least thirty
Tommies would be sailing to Algiers with us.
With our coal bunkers topped off we finally got underway.
The British soldiers were lined up along the railings to watch the
proceedings. They were happy to be heading west after spending years
in the North African desert. They reasoned that Algiers would at least
seem nearer to home. The arrangement was for the soldiers to sleep
in their vehicles and use their own rations . . . the best laid plans
of mice and men!
The relatively calm Mediterranean began acting up on
our first day out from Port Said. When the ship started doing a bit
of pitching and rolling, many of the Tommies wished they were back
on the shifting sands of the Sahara.
Our gunners were required to stand extra lookout watches
on that run. The captain wanted a pair of eyes up on monkey island,
to back up the seaman's in the crows nest. It was mine country and
once again pulses quickened at the prospect of our steel plates brushing
against a mine's innocent looking spines.
By the second day at sea the Tommies who wanted to
eat were wolfing down ship's grub. The chief steward did not mind,
he was keeping tabs on it and would send in the appropriate itemized
account for the company to sort out with the military brass. We bid
adieu to our soldier buddies. They were to stay around Algiers for
a while before heading for Italy. They were a well-fed lot as they
drove away in their lorries with their own rations still intact. It
was around that time when reality began to sink in. The chief steward
and local ship's chandler could not locate many ship's stores, at any
price.
We steamed merrily along to Gibraltar with a group
of ships destined to become the nucleus of an Atlantic convoy. The
numbers increased substantially while we were swinging at anchor overnight
in the shadow of Gibraltar's famous rock. Shortly after first light,
we were on our way west across the Atlantic under the guardianship
of the United States Navy.
We were at sea and had to make do with what food we
had on board. We learned to appreciate that rice could fill the aching
void even when excess pounds were slipping off our frames. We were
nineteen days steaming from Gibraltar to Saint John. The meals really
took a nose dive during the final week. I lost a good ten pounds crossing
the pond on that trip.
When our convoy was approaching the United States,
Captain Robinson had us signal the Commodore's ship with the Aldis
lamp. The skipper wanted permission for our ship to break off with
the vessels bound for New York so that we pick up some grub. Our predicament
was emphasized in the message. The Commodore's reply? No. Proceed to
destination.
We arrived at Saint John two days later. It was early
evening and we had to lie at anchor for the night. The word of our
plight was relayed to the ship's agent who had a crate of eggs and
a dozen loaves of bread sent out by launch.
Many of us paid off the Tweedsmuir Park next
day, to disappear to the far corners of Canada on leave after our seven-month
jaunt. Buck and I shared the train journey to Toronto. We stopped over
at Montreal for one day to re-register at the Merchant Navy Manning
Pool. Buck continued on to the family farm near Goderich to resume
chasing the local girls.
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This page: on board SS
Tweedsmuir Park. |
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On
board SS Noranda Park. |
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